Water Leveling Mobile Home

Leveling a Mobile Home using a Water Level

All right, so what we’re doing here is we’re leveling, the manufactured home and replacing the peers on this prefab home, or even that it’ll work on a mobile home, so we’re, going to Be using a water level and the how we determined, or how do we know that the home needs to be leveled, and one of the tell-tale signs here is the windows and even some of the door jams will not be in alignment.

You can tell over time it seems to get a little worse, the gap from the top to the bottom of like doors and for an example. Here I can show you on this prefab home a door jamb that’s out of alignment.

So you’ll, see here we got the glass sliding window and I’m gonna be taking open the door here and I’m, going to be placing the card stock at the top, because that’S where the least amount of gap is just to where it holds it and then, as you can see, coming down, the gap gets a little bit bigger and we’ll use a ruler here and we can see by placing this ruler.

We have about 3/8 of an inch um. Well yeah. It’s actually 7/16, maybe of an inch here that we have a gap from up top to bottom, so that’s, a huge telltale sign of the house needing to be leveled. All right so from going under the house, we found a couple of different things here with the home.

I brought a few the piers out, so we can take an example, so you’ll, see here the home. This pier here is Rusted, who’s, crowded out bases, basically right, just rotted away all right. This is a 20. This is actually a 30 inch pier.

So here’s, another one that you can tell you can see. Its face has gone altogether, so these ones were in the center of the home, not necessarily where, for the leveling but more for weights in support of the home, and these were actually in the center of the home, where there was a water line where the water Settles so these were actually submerged and wanted quite a bit of the time, so that’s, a problem, so we’re gonna raise those up to get that out of the soil a bit and put it on some of these Wood platforms, one of the thing that we’re gonna end up meeting some components of doing a leveling home there’s.

A 20 ton Jack bottle that Jack. So you’re gonna need a guy 12-time. We probably would work, but I for safety, get a 20 ton bottle jack. What you’ll, see here and I’ll put them in the bottle jack is these wood pad and I prefer to go with wood rather than plastic.

These are 2 by 12 by 30 paths, so 2 by 12, by 13 inch pads. Now the this home was made back in the eighties, and so at that time the code was a little bit different. You were just allowed to have. This is the adjustment pad where a pizza would would go on top here.

Just supporting piece of wood or to actually wood or being vigilance had wood because it was in the center of home, but actually the other leveling. Once these, that’s metal beam, the i-beam will be resting here.

These ones were at wood piece of wood in the center of the home. Like this, so back in the 80s they had. The regulations had nothing to wear. We come out, and quite frankly, if you & # 39, ve got that much oven if we got more problems going on here, be worrying about so, and we’re in California here.

So this is earthquake territory. So we have a little bit different codes in normally. I quote at the time there was nothing fastening, the pier to the pad right, so now what they have ones like this one, we’ve got some bolts, so the code is now to where the pier needs to be attached to the wood base.

Minimally to two legs, but there is rooms before so. You got four put four legs in there. I prefer to use, and that would be like a quarter inch by one leg. I perfect prefer to use a galvanized, but it’s, not necessary.

Zinc. Would be fine so that’s once that’s attached base, then that’s, part of the code, then the other part of the code. Now they have this instead of the this type of top. That goes on top. Here they have a different table now to where there’s, you’ve got your adjusting bolt for the height, and actually I just I want to take this time here to say that you do not adjust the house with these, but These bolts here with this top it’s, done with hoist with the jet bottle jack, and then you lift this up.

Then you can turn this down, give it a half turn once it meets worth that give it a half turn and then, from the bottom side, once this isn’t in I’m gonna put these in the head time, then You just read, but not on so that way you won’t, have any lift and it doesn’t need to be tight.

Sometimes these are a little hard to get started because just because there we go so now you’ll come up so, but once once you get the public height, you’ll just go in there with your hand, you just finger tight.

You don’t need to tighten the bottom nut and tie the doll. So then it’ll, be all one piece you know the other part of this is the safe. This is the beam right. This hooks in this is the i-beam that hooks in on this side right and then on this side.

They have this plate that will clamp down, and I took one off here off another one. So it’s, just a plate. That’s bolted in so is this will fasten to the i-beam and it’ll, be all one piece now so the base, the pier and the top will all be fastened to the structure.

That way, when, if this moves, everything will move along with it, you know how to live with this. We’re previously, when they just had this setup, I mean the house can move and this could stay still, or vice versa, and even this could just fall over.

So it’s, much better stuff, much better safety. However, it’s, not necessarily seismic rated to do any type of seismic. We need lateral straps to hold that in place all right, so we got the bottle jack.

We & # 39, ve got piers and they come in two inch increments. So and the maximum specs, you can go on an adjustment between here. It’s three inches now three inches is generally about my three finger lengths, so I can go up two inches from the top of the bolt right, so you can go up.

Two inches, which is about three fingers when I’m under there, you know you don’t need to measure, but three. So what three fingers so that’s about two inches right there, so that’s, that’s; your maximum adjustment, it’s, two inches from the top of a bulb to here.

That’s. Your code size not that’s on there. There’s, an inch and an eighth. So you’ll just once that’s in there. You can give it a half turn. Okay. So then, some other aspects of this whole thing besides the pad is you want a higher that you can get just here away from any type of water or the ground contact the better you’re going to be so you can have.

You can stack multiple paths on top of one another. It doesn’t have to just be one, but if you are stacking more than one pad, then you’re gonna want to fasten the pads together themselves with some two and a half inch screws.

Just you know: throw man two in each end and I just happen to have these deck mate. They’re kind of a pepper coat lifetime warranty or they won’t corrode and then fastening again. These are a quarter by one galvanized, which is a 7/16 tax, Canada on the top, and I have a magnetic it.

I’ll use my trusty Makita and you just drive them down, and then I’m using the key tools over here, so that’s. A 969 16 Bowl steer 7/16 head on the on the legs and inch and an eighth, alright. Now the next and the biggest part of this whole job is the water level.

You know what I decided to do is, and just just to give a brief example. On how the water level works alright, so I & # 39. Ve got right now there cap, so it’s. Not doing anything. You see the water is.

You can see this very well, but the water won’t move right now. Cuz it’s tap and if I got a red color but red dye, some food coloring, so I just need some red food coloring. So once I take off big tops, you see these two points will always one level might take a little while, depending on how much she’s got going to see so this these points will always be level.

So we’re gonna have a container on one end of the house, that is the water supply, and then you can go all around each. If you want, you can just use one line and you could go to each pier and measure this way, but what I decided to do, because there’s 35 piers on this house right.

So it makes it a little bit difficult to call underneath this house, you’ve only got about three foot in some cases, maybe even less to be crawling around, so it takes time. So what I did here’s, a diagram here’s, a diagram underneath of the house with all the.

Hopefully I got this lined up here. I’m. I don’t have a camera person, so hopefully this will work out, but you can see. I’ve got 35 piers there’s, 4 rows 1 2, 3 4 rows of 8 going across and then there’s 2 of those 28 inch ones in the center.

So here we go so let’s see here it’s uncle from the backside of the campus of make sure you got a good view here. Alright, so here we go alright. So I’m gonna have the water bucket. I already know that the low end of the house is here or excuse me.

The high end of the house is here, and the low end is here and the reason how I know this is one the way the door jamb is skewed and, secondly, I know water moisture is on this area of the house. Okay, so all these X’s represent the piers.

My water level line is in red, so I’ve got from the water bucket. I have two lines coming out. You could have just one line, but I decided to do two and you can have as many lines as you want coming out of the source it doesn’t matter.

Doesn’t have to be one line. It can be more so to each peer. I have a line going to it, so you’ll, see. I went up this row over and then back down and ended it here and that way I can drain the water level from there to get.

My right height and then the same thing from here. I went up down to the end down and back down this row and then I’m, not leveling. These two in the center here for one there they’re at a different height than all the rest of these other peers and the this isn’t.

Necessarily these two are not a leveling peer. They’re, just more for supporting the center of the house just for for weight here’s. This is the entry of end. This is where we come in entry way underneath of the house.

Now I had to add in a couple of extra peers because they weren’t actually in the house. So I added in a peer here up here here, for whatever reason they didn’t have them in and this one’s in concrete of the bases in concrete.

So I couldn’t, take it out and actually you don’t need to take out each of the all the peers either. You can leave them in place and you can put in existing peer alongside the other one, but you just have to remember when you’re leveling, it kid interfere with leveling of the house because that one piers holding the weight.

So you’d, have to back it off so so then I added in another peer here all right that right, so that pretty much takes care of the water level. Now how long what I’m doing in when I’m using the water level, I used a bunch of different watt, either wise peas and quarter-inch.

So these are all quarter inch material, quarter-inch, wise T’s and quarter-inch caps, which you’ll temporarily need the caps as you’re, transferring because it’s hard to get all the air bubbles out of The water line underneath the house, so I prefer to leave my water line outside the house and then drag it back underneath the house.

So I construct it underneath the house dry, no water going to each peer and then I pull that out of the house underneath bring it out straighten out the lines. Sometimes they’re, all curly cute, so you might have to heat up the lines or just the Sun of the day.

A lot of times we’ll, do it and then I feel the bleep. The line can’t, have any air in your water line all right, so it & # 39. S got to be no air bubbles and we use magnets these hook magnets that attach to the pier and then I use, tie, wrap and then do something like this.

So you take tie wrap. You can start to put the tie, wrap together. First cinch it down a bit, and so we’re, going to be something like this, so the beam of the house will be here. So you’re. You’ll, have your water level.

So once you establish your high point of your house that’s, one of the things that we’ll. Do you want to establish whatever piers at the highest and then you just up? I prefer to find the highest point of the house and then adjust all the other peers going up rather than trying to adjust down it just seemed to be.

I find to be easier that way so yeah, so this will be going to the source and, as you can see, then once you’ve done, then these are right now plug a plug one thing I unplug it and plug all them all. When I’m underneath the house and then it levels I’ll, let show that a little bit more in detail when I go underneath the house bucket.

This one here is white. It’s, a white bucket. I got a ended up finding a clear bucket at Home Depot at n court, but it didn’t come with a top. Unfortunately, so I got a just a 5-gallon top from another container, just put it on and I taped it down, but it’s kind of a whitish more clear than this, and so that way I’m able to mark it, and I will show that to you underneath the house here in just a minute so that bucket underneath the house, I have a tee and I just drilled a hole actually with the heat gun with actually a soldering iron.

I could put it in and I cemented in a tee and then I had lines running off the tee okay enough on that. I also know this invention make sure you have a good clean pair of safety goggles. Not so much of that you’re, doing any grinding or any type of sawing or anything like that.

But when you’re underneath the house, you’re on your back a lot of the times your arms reaching over and you got sand on your clothes. So stand. He usually ends up with get in your eyes, so the safety goggles are more for a protection barrier from the sand, getting in your eyes and stuff falling to the bottom, without also, usually one piece finally recommended getting stand.

That would be it and the next segment. We’ll, be talking about more above, going underneath the house and setting up the water level line. So you’re, going to want to go around and measure each pier and the distance that you have to determine which piers will fit and then, of course, if it’s in a water, if it’s in a Wet area you probably might want to want to raise the pad add another pad on top of it, so that then you would, since the piers come in two inch increments.

If this was a in a water area – and you wanted to raise it – you’d, want to get a 12 inch pier rather than a 14, and you would still be within your two inch clearance, all right. So when lifting the house, you’re, going to want to make sure a few fundamental things you want to have a good base.

So in this case, because of just the the angle underneath here, I have two two by twelve by 30 inch planks. Here and then this is just a help level out the plank you just because the the angle of the dirt down here, so we got a good base in most cases, just probably one board is fine.

I’m planning on using these boards later. In a different area, so I kind of want to protect these boards a little bit. So I put another 2-inch piece of wood here underneath the jack just to kind of help preserve the integrity of these two boards.

Here that I plan on using later and then even even more important yet is that we have a good support to spread out the weight evenly here on the eye on this i-beam. So if you just use a piece of plywood here or a piece of 2×4, what will end up happening? Is you’ll just end up making a real good indentations in the wood, and you’re, not going to get much of a lift and the you know the wood will split and possibly pop out at you.

So you know what you want to do is I ended up having a couple of stainless steel plates eighth inch. I got a quarter inch stainless steel plate underneath here to press up against, which will give me plenty of support here to just disperse that weight, because otherwise, if you lift just with the bottle jack in one area, all it’ll do is just Pinpoint all that pressure into this one area and you can probably tweak or even bend this i-beam, so we want to be sure that we have.

You know something here to help disperse that weight evenly and then, along with you, know, a piece of metal, so it doesn’t split the wood and then then we can lift want to mention. I’ll be considerably.

You know. In order to provide the instructions and advice, I’m, giving you here today all right. Another piece of very handy equipment that you’re going to want to have is some type of a bucket or a container to push around.

Underneath the house, because you’re, going to be crawling underneath there and you need all kinds of different things at one time or another tie straps snips, whatever lubricant, and you want to be with you so here I got this container with that rounded Corners so when you’re, pushing underneath the house and stuff it’s, a moves rather quite easily.

So I got this DEP reserve here for lubricating the tops of the piers that for the jam nuts, they’re on the old ones. To make it easier to loosen off, because you’ll, see that they’re. Going to be quite rusted, underneath alright so but to go underneath the house here and we’ll, show you the water level lines and putting in the piers.

But first I want to show you what I did. I showed this diagram earlier to you that had to do with the water level lines, but also I wanted to point out what each one okay, I got. Each pier marked with X’s.

What I did previously, they went down, and I measured the top number is from the top of the the i-beam to the bottom of the pad. That’s. The whole distance from the i-beam, the bottom of the house, to the bottom of the pad or the floor, and then the bottom number is the current height of the pier that’s being used.

So, for example, this one here it was 17 and 7/8 from the bottom of the house to the bottom of the pad, and then it was a 16 inch pier so that left an inch and 7/8 distance. So that’s. One of the first things that you want going to want to do is measure the distance from the bottom of the of the i-beam to the floor of the pad.

That way, you get. You know what Peter sighs Peter that you need and, for example, like this one here I put on plus a pad because it’s, a wet area, so I’m raising it. So I think originally. I think there was a 16 inch pier here and I’m using a 14 inch, pier yeah.

But, however, I’m, adding an extra pad to raise it up out of the water level line all right. So we’re gonna get ready. We’re about to go in here. This is the entryway I got my bucket or my container follow my tools and equipment that I need and there’s, one pier right there and you know how the lighting is down here, but we’ll, give this a shot.

Hopefully it’ll work out and that’s, all the weight going down, so the green ones of the old piers and the brownish ones are going to be the new piers okay. So I’m under Neath the house and set up some lights here, so I can show you the water level system, and so I’m just gonna pan around here.

It’s kind of dark in some areas, but you see that’s. The entryway that’s where I came in and probably can’t see down that way, but that corner there’s. A pier up here here, [ Applause ] with my water level system, and what I did is I from one I beam see.

This is an i-beam right here. This black part piece here that’s, an i-beam and then there’s. My water bucket from my water level system, so I draw it, took a string from that i-beam over to this next i-beam, and that would get me my level line that I want to.

I’ve, already established that this is the high end of the house. So we’re high here and we’re low everywhere else. So I’m gonna want to. I got enough water in there that I got to drain some out so right now my water level system see.

I got this magnet on here, so you know I can move this so right now when I drag the lines and I plugged all these lines, so the water water, wouldn’t leak out when I drug drag it in so now, when i unplug It and plug the I don’t know if it was in the frame, but this was plugged here with a wooden dowel, so I remove it and I just keep it up top here.

No, it keeps falling off there. We go for storage, so no matter where I move. This line see the water moves along with it up and down right. So so I just put the magnet there so right now you can see this is my one of my high pillars highs pillars on into the house along with this one over here, so they’re, pretty much both about the same.

So this one’s a little bit easier for access for me to get to the line up so right now. What I’m gonna want to do is I’m gonna want to get this line somewhere to where I can easily manage, probably right to the bottom of this frame right.

So what I’m gonna need to do is I need to drain water from the bucket right about to this line here right, so you can see it’s a little bit high. So I need to put a piece of tape here, and this string see it’s tight, so that string indicates that’s, where my level needs to be so.

I’m, going to go to the other peers over here into where I can drain the water out a little bit more easier than over here then I can come back and measure this all right, just to show you so there’S another pier over there there’s, some piers in the distance there, with all the lines on I don’t know if you can see it very well with the lighting, its Lighting’s kind of dim down here.

So there’s, a pier with a lot water level line. This is my – and this is where we’re gonna drain and then further on down the row, if you can make it out all the way down. So I & # 39. Ve got four rows of eight, so you can see there’s, not a whole lot of clearance under here.

So what we’re going to do. Is I’m going to? Let me set the camera up, so I don’t have because I can’t hold it and do both this at the same time. So let me get a better angle here, so I can show you what we’re doing here on the water level line to get the correct okay.

So I & # 39. Ve got a container here, so I know how much I’m, taking out in case I take out too much, but we’re gonna drain. Some. This is the end line, so I got my my finger over the end and then I’m gonna drain some out, so it meets that mark that we Howe have over at the other end.

So I did this once already, so I kind of have an idea where I need to go so I added some water fluid back in just to kind of show you what’s going to happen here. So because I lowered this. It’s lower than the bucket, so it’s going to drain out.

So I’ve got it’s, going to take this whole cup all the way up to the brim. I know, and probably a little bit more there’s, two lines here there’s. I got thirty-five peers, but 33 are only hooked up to be leveling, so it’s broke in half, so I & # 39.

Ve got like you know sixteen on one and seventeen on the other, so I have two lines coming from that bucket. We’re almost there. Okay, once we’re almost there and I’ll show you what happens here. I’m gonna put my finger over okay.

Now I’m, put my finger over to the top. It’s out of the frames, and I pick up the camera, but as soon as I okay, you can see right now, my fingers on there. Let me get the lighting might be better there.

We go all right so with my finger on top creating a vacuum there right or there’s, no pressure. So now it’s gonna soon, as I release my finger, it’s. Gon na try to it’s, gonna equalize, okay, it’s, gonna drop down.

Sometimes it drops down a little bit low. There we go so now see we’re right boat right about in the middle. So I know I have to take out just probably just a little bit more water. Oh hang on! Oh actually an enemy pan over here to the bucket, and you can see it’s really pretty close to that line there, and now here on this pier, it looks like we might be: [ Applause ] right on level.

It’s right at the bottom there. Actually, it is okay, see that so actually so since that’s at the bottom and the that would make sense, the other pier that we checked at is probably is just a little bit low.

So that needs to come up so on the half I pan over. This is the one will run. The other side drag light over strings in the way a little bit. If you can see that looks like we’re right on so these two piers see the water levels right at the bottom of the mother of the line there.

Alright. So one thing I want I didn’t want to point out. Is that you can’t use on just a regular level? Cuz, if you show here as you can see, if I had a level here this regular level, it shows it’s right on the money we’re, pretty darn close.

I just use that as a reference. Then I have that course that’s, a small level. You need to have the level the length of the house, and I & # 39. Ve got another level here, probably hard to make out with the lighting, but you can see it shows that it’s level.

It’s like you’d, say well gosh the house is level, but this level isn’t long enough. You’d, need to have a level the length of the house to really do this properly and that’s, just not going to work or a transit laser or a laser level up top.

But there’s too many obstructions up top on the top of the house, so I, like the water level system, that much more better. So all right, so let me go to the next clip. You know. One thing I do want to mention is there’s, a bit of laws of physics here involved? Obviously, but you do need to have a large bucket in order to do to do this properly, because otherwise the you’ve got the whole.

I’ve, got all these horizontal lines running the length of the house, so you need to have the proper amount of pressure. So I & # 39. Ve got enough volume in this bucket. I wouldn’t want to go much lower than the water line on this, and, of course, I can’t go much higher because of course, this restraints right so space restraints here.

So you just need to make sure you & # 39. Ve got a large enough around bucket for volume to distribute the pressure properly through all the horizontal lines in the house. You just can’t, have a quart sized jar here and do this.

You need to have a larger bucket and you’ll, be set. You’ll, be all set to go all right. Okay, so I moved over to another pier a little bit wet further away and you’ll, see the this. The water level line is like to the top of the beam rather than at the bottom so, and this is going further away from down the line, so this needs to be right.

You know this needs to be raised up and no matter where I put this magnet it’ll change, see you might sometimes it might take a little little bit while to to register. You know I can you see it so so that one is a little bit low, not much, but as I go further down the line they get worse.

Okay, here’s, another one that shows it’s low and I need to raise so this is the low will change this one out and I’ll, show you how it works and, as you can see, this is Right at I got my these three fingers are just about two inches a little bit over two inches and that’s.

My quick check to know my distance height. As far as the code laughs you can see, the level line is above right. There is above the i-beam so that’s low and we need to raise it. Let me get that set up and I & # 39.

Ll show you how that’s, fun all right on this first one here after lifting you can see that the jack in place – and previously we were above so we here we are on this pier, as previously you saw the the water line, was Above the i-beam, and now we’re, just right right at that level, right below right at them in line with the i-beam.

So we’re ready to take out this, this pier and put in the new one, so that’s. What I’m, going to do? Okay, so you can see, I have this lifted up and we’re at the line just below the i-beam, and we have a space.

This is loose in here. So now we just take the magnet. Take it off attach it anywhere out of the way remove this here in bringing the new one [ Applause, ] and wipe off the base here, and one thing you will never want to do is put your finger in between the pier and the jack.

Is that Jack? Let’s, loose right, bringing in the new one, and here we go so we loosen off the bolts that clamp it on these bolts. Here, okay, I & # 39. Ll have to get a tell the camera all right. It’s hard to do this and do the camera last thing I want to get.

I’d like to have it on the other bolts in turned on that nut. Nice make sure it’s locked in on that side, pull it towards you and we’re. We’re centered on the on the pad down below just finger tight finger tight on that nut there and just run these up.

Then we’ll come back later and tighten that down and that’s. Finger tight make sure we’re centered on the pad it’s not loose, take up any slack there we go. I think we’re good, all right so now that we got that in place and put the magnet on the new pier – and I’m – sorry about that, once it’s, that’s finger tight! Now I just go a half turn from this point with my one.

An eighth inch probably end up doing. Okay, there’s, a quarter, probably right about there, all right there we go and that’s. Our first pier you know loosen hasta loosen off the jack okay, so on this first one took quite a bit to really finally get it right where I wanted it, because all the load was on this side, so I had to go down in adjust up another Peer about six feet away, because this peer was taking the whole load.

So I went and jested that one and then came back in and then we did this one again and got it right where it should be so that’s. Typically, what will happen starting out with the first couple of one or two, so that’s? What you’ll have to do now.

I’m, going to go and fasten down the the fasteners here and at the base. Okay, so we get these fasteners move the level out of the way. Okay got that, then the center Center nut just needs to be hand tight, but we & # 39.

Ll use the drill to assist getting that bolt up that’s it. So we got that Center one done and then now the base, you have limited room for everything it’s, not an easy job, any means once you get all this in place, really the hardest parts.

A lot of this is just getting the materials down here there that one’s complete alright, so got that one in place. Like I said 34 more once I get those done, I’ll, get back to you here and we’ll recheck.

We might have to do some final adjustments because there’s, imperfections throughout the house. Obviously, everything’s, not perfectly level, so we might need to make some adjustments. We’ll check that check that door jamb to see what that looks like later, and then we can decide whether we want to leave this water level line down here or take it.

Take it out. So no reason why to remove it, but just I’m sure the water in those lines would evaporate eventually and then maybe even get stagnant. So I don’t know something to think about that anyway, and then the next one.

Alright. So, just more of a general view of what’s going on this see this. This is the area where this the 28 inch piers are gonna, be going. I’m going to right now. I have one pad in here, but I’m gonna put another one in and lift it up, and I should have enough room.

You see. I have like a inch and a half there of thread space, so I should be able to lift that pad up a little bit more to get it out of this valley of the water that seems to collect down through the centers that’s.

Where it all collects so previously, what they had any haven’t. Had there’s a concrete floor under here? Actually, I’m, not sure how far the concrete does go. If it’s, if it encompasses the whole bottom here or not, but at any rate I’m gonna put another pad.

You can even raise it up a little bit further to get it out of that one wet water line. So here we go so that’s. The water line Valley right there going up through, and we got another pier here – my water line, water level line and move around here bit.

Let’s see well. I’d like to do would be nice to set up floodlights in each corner of the house, but don’t have floodlights and I wasn’t going to go extra added expense, though in my cart, my all my Tools, so you see the there’s cruising along so see the water water level lines there’s, another pier and which I’m, going to be changing that one next and, as you see obstructions here, all over the Place so I went, I didn’t.

Have the water level lines run this horizontally across here, because I the way that would be you know crawling over on Miche time, so it was best just going up down and back, and so this next one here you can see that’s, obstruction Right there, so I’m gonna have to get over that.

So it’s either you either try to climb over it or crawl under it, either way, and then there’s more piers up there. So, as you can see this, is it and I’ll, get you to show you the next part later to see how things worked out? Okay, so the jobs complete and all the peers have been changed and the house has been leveled and in the truck here you’ll, see all the used peers that I replaced and take all that off to the local scrapyard.

I won’t, be much for scrap, but anyway it’s, a way to dispose of them. So here again here’s, all the peers, quite a task quite challenging contorting yourself, over and under different things. Underneath the house all the obstructions, it was quite a job, so let’s, go and check and see how well we did on that.

Leveling see how the door turned out so so here we have the door glass sliding door that we started out with and kept at the card stock in here right just barely holds it and you can see the gap going down pretty much equal and all the Way, yeah, so let me just slide the stock.

You can see. Ok gets a little bit loose here: okay, tight, tight, okay, loose and a little bit even looser here, but not much. I mean we’re talking about 1/32 of an inch, so I would say job well done.

I hope you enjoyed this video Water Leveling a Mobile Home

Source : Youtube

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